DIY Lighted Sign

This next project ranks up in my top ten most favorite projects…ever!  Seriously.  It is really making me happy.  I LOVE lights on in the house and feel like they should be something that occurs other than just Christmas time.  I put some fun bulb lights in my office/craft room and turn them on when I need a little happiness boost.

Lighted-letter-DIY

So why not add some fun lights to another room of the house that I spend a lot of time in with the family…the family room.  These lighted letters are quite the rage right now and I LOVE them…I didn’t want to pay the price for them and figured we could make one pretty easily.   We used up scrap pieces of wood we had from other projects and so the only thing we had to buy were the lights.

We purchased our Room Essentials white string lights from Target.  They have them online and in some stores. I also found them here: Globe Lights.

Lighted-letter-sign-tutorial

Here is how we made our Lighted Letter Sign…

You will need the following:

Room Essential String Lights (or your own choice)

Piece of wood large enough for your letter (ours was 18 inches wide by 24 inches tall)

1/4 inch MDF cut into 3 inch strips for the edges (enough to go around all edges)

drill and a 13/16th drill bit (this bit fits the RE lights above, adjust if using different lights)

wood glue

staples or nails

sand paper

spray paint or stain (we used Valspar’s Golden Maize in a Satin finish)

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 1.  Draw out your letter and be sure to give ample room for your lights according to their size.  Cut out the letter.  Ours was 24 inches tall and 18 inches wide with the width of the letter itself was just over 5.25 inches.

We used a mitre (miter) box saw to cut the H out of the wood.  We stopped right before running into the corner of the 90 degree angles and then used our Rockwell Sonicrafter X2 (stay tuned for more details and a fun surprise…hint hint!) to cut the corners of the 90 degree angles.

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2.  We measured out where we wanted the lights to be and lined them up equal distances and marked the spot where we wanted to drill a hole with a penciled dot.

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3.  Use your drill and a 13/16th drill bit and drill a hole at each pencil mark.  Be sure to go all the way through wood.  The lights base should fit all the way into the hole without a lot of wiggle room.

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4.  Measure and cut your side strips and glue them into place with overlap in front and in back.  This will help hide the cords from the side.  We just eyeballed this until we liked the placement of it.  We used a piece of wood (that placed the strip in the right position) to be our guide so that we spaced it the same all the way around the letter.

5.  Glue and staple each strip into place and let the glue dry completely before gluing another section since you will be turning and rotating it.  Wipe off any excess drips of glue.

lighted-sign

6.  You can caulk any spaces or nail holes, if you would like, but we did not do this this time.  The edges were pretty smooth and I wanted a little rougher, vintage look to it.

7.  Spray paint or stain your letter.  We used Valspar’s Golden Maize in a Satin finish.  We just picked it up from our local Lowes.

8.  Take your lights and break off the small little clips.  They should break really easily with some pliers and a slight twist of your hand.

9.  Then put each light into a hole.  You can do this by unscrewing the light bulbs and putting the base underneath and up through the hole and screwing in the light bulb from above the hole.

Lighted-letter

10.  Twist up all the cord and tie back with twist ties or some wire to keep the wires all contained and from getting all tangled or showing from the side of your letter.

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We are displaying the Lighter Letter H on top of our TV Cabinet so we don’t have to worry about hiding the electrical cord.  I am just happy we have a pretty easy straight lined last initial!  I am not sure how I would do a G….

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I LOVE how festive it makes the room feel…like it is a holiday without all the fuss and work of one!  Want to know what other projects make up some of my top ten? Check these out:

DIY Tufted Headboard

Apothecary Cabinet

Paint a Rug

Customized Towel Rack

DIY Bulletin Board

Believe Lighted Sign

Frankincense & Myrrh Christmas Gift

Lighted-letter-initials



Bushel and A Peck Pillow

I am finally able to share with you this Bushel and A Peck Pillow, which is one of the very first projects I made with the new Cricut Explore machine. You may remember when I shared with you about how I came to love Cricut’s new machine. I shared with you a sneak peak of this pillow and many of you asked how you could get one for yourself! Well today is that day (and yes…there are STILL no pictures in my photo frames…ha…I give up ;)…

love-pillow

I, for one, particularly LOVE this pillow and project.  My mom used to sing this to us when we were little.  I think that many of you may feel the same way about this fun little song.  So I thought, since I have sung it to my kids, it would be fun to display it in our home.

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I simply made a pillow cover using this pillow cover tutorial I have shared with you earlier.  I made it out of a painter’s drop cloth.  I have almost used up that drop cloth now after using it for several pillows and other projects around my home.

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Then, using the Cricut Design Space, I designed this fun phrase from the song and cut it out in vinyl.  You can cut it out in iron on transfer material if you want, but I wanted to stencil the words on so that it had a more faded vintage look to it.  Either way will work great, depending on your own tastes.

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I used the vinyl as a stencil for the pillow and stenciled it on with some black fabric paint.

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Be sure to put a piece of paper or cardboard in between the layers of fabric (especially if you use a thinner fabric) so that the paint does not bleed through onto the back of the pillow.

nursery-decor

Then after it has dried completely, put your pillow insert in the pillow cover and display in your child’s room, nursery or family room.  Right now it is sitting in our family room.  We had it there for Valentine’s as part of our decor…but I have left it out on display because it makes me happy when I see it.  It is a good reminder of when my babies…were…well babies.  I kinda miss that stage!

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One of my favorite things about working with Cricut is that you can now MAKE this EXACT project with the click of one button on your own Cricut Explore Machine.  Seriously…how awesome is that?!

It will cut out exactly how I have it here, or you can change it up a bit to fit the size and needs of your own style.  Want to print it out for a painted sign?  Or put on a blanket?  You can do that too…

And? If you don’t have a new Cricut Explore machine, stay tuned…we have something exciting in the works!

cricut make it now button

 

Click on the image above to see the latest and greatest Cricut products.

Is this a phrase you use in your family? If not, I would love to know what phrase or quote you use!



DIY iPad Holder

 

This is a Sponsored post written by me on behalf of Krazy Glue for SocialSpark. All opinions are 100% mine.

We rarely pull out cook books anymore due to the ease of the internet.  I usually haul my laptop or the ipad (if I can find it because the kids tend to swipe it) into the kitchen to pull up a recipe.  This is not always convenient or good on the laptop or ipad, which can get sticky and gooey in the kitchen.

ipad-holder

So, of course, I set out to fix that.  I made a VERY simply iPad holder to use in the kitchen.  I simply took a wood cutting board that was larger than the ipad and added a couple pieces to turn it into an ipad stand.

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To make this for yourself you will need the following:

wood cutting board

Scrabble game piece holder

triangle piece of wood

Krazy Glue

wood stain

decorative vinyl (optional)

 ipad-holder 10

I simply cut a piece of wood scrap into a triangle on my ban saw.  This piece will be glued onto the back of the cutting board and will be the support and hold it steady.  It needs to have a bit of an angle on the back…the more angle, the more your cutting board will lean backwards.  Adjust this according to your needs and preference.

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Stain the triangle and the Scrabble game piece holder and let them dry completely.  Glue the triangle onto the back so that the bottom of the triangle rests against the counter.  Let that dry completely.  Then glue the game piece onto the bottom of the front of the cutting board so that it is centered.  Let it dry completely.

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That. Is. It!!  Isn’t that one of the easiest tutorials?

And that Elmer’s Krazy Glue is some good stuff, it’s Krazy strong, Krazy fast! I was really impressed with how well it held and with how quickly it bonded.  I seriously took these pictures within 15 minutes of making this (apparently I have no patience).  The applicator tip for the glue allowed me to easily place the glue right where I wanted it.

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I LOVE it! We have already used it a few times to cook from.  It makes it easy to have the recipes right on hand and at an angle that is easy to read and follow while you are in the middle of baking or cooking.

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My kids have even used it while doing homework on the kitchen table.  I am also thinking it will come in handy for a relaxing bath when this momma needs some alone time.

Interested in the spice rack and the spice labels pictured?  You can check them out here…

Spice Rack and Printable Labels

What would would you use Elmer’s Krazy Glue for?  Need some more ideas? Check out the Krazy Glue Pinterest Board for more inspiration and for some creative ways to create masterpieces in minutes.

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DIY Porch Planter Boxes

One of my favorite parts of being a Lowe’s Creative Blogger is the push that it gives to me get some of the projects that are floating around in my head, finished!  You know…those things you would love to have but just don’t find the time or the motivation to tackle?

DIY Planter

I have wanted some tall porch planters for a long time to spice up my front porch.  I, of course, never want to pay the prices that planters like these cost, especially when we can make them for much cheaper!

curb-appeal

And perhaps my favorite part of this post is the fact that I am then “forced” to plant flowers in March.  Those flowers have made me happier than they should every time I see them.  They make me feel like winter is over…even when it’s snowing outside!

DIY Planter

Want to make some Porch Planters for your home? Here is how we made them…

Materials needed for ONE Porch Box Planter:

Non-pine wood (pine will shrink)

2 side panels 10 inches (width) x 24 inches (height)

2 (front & back panel) 11 inches width at top tapering down to 9 inches in width at the bottom x 24 inches (height)

decorative molding for the top

2 scrap pieces for the inside to hold the bottom

bottom panel

decorative drawer handle or pull (we used old ones we had pulled off a dresser & spray painted black)

Dremel Saw Max

nails (nail gun)

wood glue

painter’s caulk

drill (1/2 inch drill bit)

Stain paint or wood stain (we used Olympic Maximum stain paint in the Pewter color)

river rock (gravel)

potting soil

boxwood plant (or plant of your choice)

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1.  Cut your 2 side panels.  We cut ours 10 x 24 inches.

2.  Cut your front and back panels.  We cut them so that they were wider on top and smaller on the bottom so that the porch planter had a bit of an angle to it instead of a straight rectangle.  The top was 11 inches and the bottom of the panel measured 9 inches.  We just drew a straight line from the 11 to the 9 inches with a ruler and cut on the line to taper the angle.  (Pictured above with the saw cutting from the bottom up).

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3.  Add glue to the ends of the side panels and glue the box together.  The front panels went on first with the side panels behind them so the seam is not visible from the front.

4.  Add some nails along the sides to hold the wood together firmly.  You will want the extra support for the weight of the wet soil.

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5.  After the wood glue has dried, you can caulk the seams inside and out so you have a nice clean edge and finish.  Use the proper caulk depending on if you will be staining or painting the planters.

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6.  Take some decorative molding and measure the top of your planter and cut it according to the size and style you chose to make a nice finishing edge around the planter.  Cut and nail and glue into place and then caulk the seams.

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7.  Take some scrap pieces (just a strip of wood) and nail them into the base of the planter on the side or front panels.  This will be the base and support for the base of your planter.

8.  Measure a square piece of wood that will fit into the bottom of your planter and will rest of your side supports.  We drilled three holes into the base so that the water can drain out properly.

DIY Planter 8

9.  Sand the edges so you have a nice, smooth finish.  Paint the inside and the outside to give you protection from the moisture and the outside elements.  We chose a paint stain to give us a long lasting protection from the weather.  Let dry.

DIY Planter

10.  Fill with gravel or rock in the bottom…about 2 inches.  Fill the rest with potting soil and then add your plant.

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This is a really quick project and I LOVE the way they updated my front porch.  I also picked up a couple of fun, green and white, SPRINGY pillows from Lowes.  I also threw together a monogrammed pillow to personalize things as well.  I simply made a pillow cover out of a canvas paint drop cloth (one that I have used for several projects here) and stenciled the letter H on it.

boxwood-planters

I am still loving my black front door and if you are interested in how to paint your front door, be sure to refer to my tutorial in the link.

porch-plants

Have you had a chance to sign up for Lowe’s Creative Ideas Magazine. It’s FREE and offers a bunch of DIY inspiration. Go ahead and connect with Lowes Creative Ideas to find a lot more fun and creative ideas.

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DIY Planter-Tutorial

*Disclosure–In accordance with the FTC Guidelines, I am disclosing that I received compensation from Lowe’s for my time and participation in the Lowe’s Creative Ideas Influencer Network. However, all opinions and statements are mine and mine alone.



DIY Growth Chart Tutorial

I have been wanting to build a Growth Chart for a couple of years now.  Growing up, we had a wall dedicated to tracking my siblings and my growth over the years and it has been so fun to look back and see how tall we were compared to each other and to my own children at the same ages.

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When we moved into this home almost 11 years ago we dedicated a wall in my youngest daughters room for the same thing.  But, I always wanted to have a portable one so that I could switch things up cause well…I obviously like change…haha!  I finally got around to making one.

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I have seen several versions floating around on the internet and fell in LOVE with Cozy Cottage Cute DIY Growth Chart.  Usually if I see something, I like to add my own changes to make it my own personal style…but hers was perfection…so I pretty much copied it with a few exceptions.  Be sure to head on over to her site to see just how she made hers…

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Materials needed:

a pine board 1 x 8 x 7 feet (actual measurements are 3/4 x 7 x 7 feet)

stain

white paint

painters tape

coarse sand paper

hand sander (if possible)

number stickers or vinyl 1-6

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Directions:

1.  Stain your board.  We used 2 stains…which is totally unnecessary.  We only did two because we wanted it to match the wood color in our home and the closest match we have found is to mix Minwax’s Jacobbean and Red Mahogony.  Allow board to dry completely after wiping away any excess stain.

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2.  Then we taped off the board in 6 inch sections.  And painted every other section with white paint and started so that the bottom 6 inches is white.  We gave it two coats and let it dry completely.  Be sure to pull off the tape while the paint is still slightly wet so you get a nice clean line without the paint pulling up.

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3.  Attach your number stickers in the stained section just below the white line above it, which should be every foot on your board so that the white line marks the 1 foot length, the 2 foot length and so on.  Paint your numbers using the vinyl as a stencil for the number.  Pull up the stencil before the paint is fully dry.  Let dry completely.  I made sure I let it dry at least 24 hours so that when I sanded it, the paint didn’t smear.

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4.  Then take your hand sander and go to town sanding this baby.  I wanted it to have a real distressed look to it.

We used my new favorite hand sander, Rockwell’s 5 inch Random Orbital Sander.

RK4246K

It is the perfect size for a woman’s hand and is easy to hold and fully control because it only weighs 3 lbs.  I also love that it has a cyclonic filter that sucks all the dust into a little canister instead of allowing the dust to fly everywhere.  LOVE that feature.  It has allowed me to sand my projects inside during the winter months without getting dust everywhere!  It is also the quietest sander I have ever used!

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5.  Pay special attention to some of the knots and fun unique characters of your piece of wood and sand those areas to add some interest to the final Growth Chart.  Wipe down the board and you are ready to go!

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The hardest part will be trying to figure out WHERE to keep it.  Everyone seems to want it in their room.  We plan to transfer our past measurements to this new chart and marking them on the board with a fine black sharpie.  We just draw a line on one edge of the chart with the child’s initial and the year and month they are in.  For example if we were to measure me right now we would mark a line at 5 feet 8 inches and write  ___ A 40.6 yr.

Yes…I am 40!

And yes…my camera is still dead and I have yet to replace it.  All these photos were taken on my iphone and the quality is killing me people!  So bear with me!! Hoping to get my new camera by this weekend!!



Serving Tray

*This is a sponsored post on behalf of Lowe’s.

For our February Lowes Challenge, we were given several different options for our projects.  One of the options was a Valentine’s Day Theme.  I have had my eye on some wine barrel cheese serving trays at Williams and Sonoma and thought it would be fun to try my hand at building my own cheese board or serving platter.

cheese-board

For the life of me, I can’t find my photos of the building process.  I looked everywhere.  So I will have to do my best to explain how we made this tray without the step-by-step photos.  Sorry about that!

You will need the following:

  • Tounge and Groove Pine Wood Planks
  • thin piece of scrap-wood or plywood
  • Stain in your color of choice (I used Minwax’s Jacob Bean)
  • Aluminum Strips (we needed two…make sure you get thin ones that you can bend and will cover the sides of your wood you use)
  • Saw (we used a Dremel Saw Max)
  • 2 drawer pulls
  • metal screws
  • wood glue
  • drill

Directions:

1.  We started with some tongue and groove pine wood planks that we purchased from Lowes.  We wanted the tray to be 24 inches in diameter.  We laid out the wood planks so that they were in a rectangle.  We then took a string and attached it to a pencil and made it so the string measured 12 inches.  Holding the string in the middle of the rectangle we circled the pencil around the edges and drew a circle on the wood.  Does that make sense?

2.  Cut your thin piece of plywood to be the same size as your circle.  This will be the base of your serving tray.

3.  Cut the boards, one by one, using the circle you drew with the pencil.  Glue together onto the plywood circle so that they are the top of the serving tray.  Let the glue dry with clamps or heavy items placed on the tray so that the wood glue dries flat.  You can add a couple of wood staples through the bottom to ensure the wood planks stay in place.

4.  Stain your wood and let dry completely.  Take the aluminum strips and wrap them around the sides of the serving tray.  Cut any excess off if needed.  Then screw them onto the sides of the wood.

5.  Screw the drawer pull handles into the sides of the serving tray.  Place some felt protectors on the bottom of the tray to protect the wood from scratching other wood surfaces.

make-your-own-cheese-board

The tray has been fun to have and we have used it for serving snacks in the family room while watching a movie.  I imagine that when one of the kids has a birthday we will use it to serve them breakfast in bed.  It also makes a great serving tray for your next dinner party.  It resides on my kitchen table right now as the centerpiece with some plants on it!

DIY-cheese-board

Have you had a chance to sign up for Lowe’s Creative Ideas Magazine. It’s FREE and offers a bunch of DIY inspiration. Go ahead and connect with Lowes Creative Ideas to find a lot more fun and creative ideas.

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*Disclosure: This is a sponsored post.  Lowe’s provided me with a gift card to showcase a project this month as part of their Lowe’s Creative Ideas Bloggers team.  However all opinions and statements are mine.



Rolling Storage Drawers

*This is a sponsored post on behalf of Lowe’s.

This month, as a Lowe’s Creator Blogger, one of our challenge choices was to come up with a creative storage idea.  With 5 kids, there is no such thing as too much storage.  I needed some more storage in the girl’s rooms but don’t love when you can see the storage containers sticking out from under the bed.

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So I wanted to make some storage spaces that were not only functional but pretty.  Truly a perfectionist’s dream come true!  We made these super easy Rolling Storage Drawers which fit perfectly under my daughter’s bed.  And…I absolutely LOVE them!!

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We just made one set, but plan on making more for the other girls rooms.  And we have yet to determine exactly what to store in them…but the options are endless.  We are thinking anything from pajamas, jeans, books, her toys, etc.  And the wheels…I LOVE the wheels!!

You could also make these to go under a book shelf or a T.V. stand…or in a kid’s playroom.  They could really be used anywhere that has a space that you can slide it under.

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Want to make some for your house?

I will share with you how we made ours including our specific dimensions.  You can go of of our main design and make any necessary changes in size dimensions so that you can modify them to fit your space.

You will need the following materials for ONE drawer:

  • 3/4 inch piece of plywood or mdf board for the base (ours measured 22 x 22 inches) *Use wood instead of mdf if you are planning on staining them.
  • two 8 foot lengths of 3.5 inch mdf (we got the primed)
  • 4 wheels (we bought wheels that were 2.5 inches in height & swiveled)
  • 16 screws for the wheels (we used 3/4 inch #10 wood screws)
  • a drawer handle or knob (we used the larger crystal knob from Lowe’s)
  • gorilla wood glue
  • staples or small nails
  • eight 1/4 strips of wood to use as corner braces (ours were 5 inches long…two for each corner)
  • sandpaper or sander
  • paint or stain
  • drill
    1.  Determine the length of your space available for your storage drawers.  Then figure out how many drawers you want.  This will help you figure out to big to make each drawer.  You will also need to measure the height you have and figure out the spacing.  Remember to figure in the total height of your wheels too.
    For example our free space under the bed measured 76 inches.  We wanted 3 drawers.  So we made each drawer 23.25 inches square (outside) (rectangle is fine too) which gave us about 6 inches for spacing between the drawers and the ends.

rolling-storage-drawers-22_thumb.jpg  rolling-storage-drawers-1_thumb.jpg

2.  Cut your base out of the mdf or plywood.  We cut our to measure 22 inches square.

3.  Cut your side boards to fit your base.  Our exterior cut was 23.25 inches angled down to 22 inches (remember you need to cut these at a 45 degree angle so they sit at a 90 degree angle on the corners.  We used a miter box saw to cut the angles.  We built it two panels high.

4.  Glue and nail the bottom panels together around the base.  We placed the bottom side panels so that the base was up a 1/4 inch from the bottom of the panels (a 1/4 inch overhang to help lower the height and allow it to fit under the bed).  Let dry.

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5.  Cut the corner braces (ours were 1/4 thick x 5 inches long and either 1.5 or 1.25 inches to allow them to match up in size since one butts up to the other.  Does that make sense?

6.  Glue and staple them in the corners to give your drawer support.  Depending on how big your drawer is, you may need other braces in the middle.

7.  Attach the upper side panels with glue on the bottom and ends and staple the corners.

8.  Caulk all cracks and spaces.  Put putty in nail/staple holes and let dry.

9.  Sand all rough edges and putty spots.  Wipe off excess dust.

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10. Attach your wheels to the base of the drawers with your screws.

11. Paint or stain your drawers.

12. Drill a hole (or two depending on your handle) where you want your drawer handle to be and attach the knob.

rolling-storage-drawers

Repeat process for as many drawers as you need.  The whole project (three drawers) took about 6 hours total from beginning to end spread over two days to allow the glue and the paint to dry.  The wheels and the knobs are the most expensive part of this project.

rolling-storage

I am not completely finished with the project as I want to put some fun colored paper in the bottom of the drawers if I can find it in a pattern and color I want.

organize-kids-toys

As always, I would love to see if any of you end up making some!  I love it when you guys email me or leave me a note of FB and share your projects with me!  It makes all my efforts here worth it and I LOVE to get to know who all of you are out there!

rolling-furniture

Sign up for Lowe’s Creative Ideas Magazine, it’s FREE and offers a bunch of DIY inspiration. Go ahead and connect with Lowes Creative Ideas to find a lot more fun and creative ideas.

storage-ideas-for-small-rooms

*Disclosure: This is a sponsored post.  Lowe’s provided me with a gift card to showcase a project this month as part of their Lowe’s Creative Ideas Bloggers team.  However all opinions and statements are mine.

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How to Build a Crate

Thanks so much for your sweet comments on this Christmas Crate that I shared with you the other day.  I always appreciate hearing from you.  As promised, I am sharing with you HOW I made this DIY Crate so that you can learn how to build a crate too.

christmas-crate

Like I mentioned in a previous post, if you are not inclined to using power tools and building your own crate, you can buy a crate at Michael’s.  They are unfinished so you could paint it a color of your choice or stain it.  OR…you can make one!

Christmas-crate

If you make one you will need some wood.  I found this wood in an old pasture and the owner gave it to me for FREE! I LOVE the color of aged wood so I personally did not do anything special with the wood.  If you don’t have old wood, you can always use new lumbar and then paint or stain it, or you can google how to age new wood.  I have never done it…but have heard you can do it with good results.

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You will need the following to build your own crate:

  • a 24 x 14 inch piece of base material (we used left over MDF board)
  • Six 1×4 boards 24 inches in length (this was the size of the boards we used)
  • Six 1×4 boards about 15 inches in length
  • Six 1×2 boards  9.5 inches tall which is about 1 inch shorter than the height of the crate (we cut 1×4’s in half)
  • nail gun (or hammer and nails)
  • wood glue
  • drill
  • jigsaw

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1.  Attach the front and back bottom boards to the base with some wood glue and nails.

2.  Attach the vertical support board to both ends of the bottom board and then in the middle with wood glue and nails.

3.  Attach the side bottom boards in the same manner.

DIY-crate

4.  Attach the middle boards in the same manner.

5.  Take your top side boards and cut out some handles using a jigsaw.  We cut them into an oval shape.  This is totally optional though.

6.  Now attach your front, back, and side boards.

That. Is. It!  Viola!!  Your very own crate!  Now you can make it your own and add a fun stencil to make it look like a vintage shipping crate…in this case, add a North Pole Freight Co. Stamp for some fun Christmas Décor.

DIY-crate

To make my stencil, I simply designed it in my Silhouette program and then cut it out in some vinyl.  I then pulled the lettering out of the stencil and created my own stencil so I could paint it onto my crate with some black paint.

DIY-crate

Simply attach the vinyl to the crate and then take a brush and stencil right onto the crate.  When the paint has dried simply peel away the vinyl.

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Since the paint looked to “new” to look aged, I simply took a lightweight piece of sandpaper and gently scuffed up the lettering to give it an aged feel and look.

christmas-crate

Fill the crate with some pine boughs, Christmas lights and some wrapped presents…in this case some empty boxes.  I simply wrapped them with some brown paper and some linen grain sack gift bags.  I actually made the linen grain sack bags and will be sharing that tutorial with you here soon as well!

Christmas-printables

And, because I like to share…I have provided the stencil for you to use as well.  I have it as a svg Silhouette file or a pdf for you to download based on what will work best for you.

You can download the free printable here:

*If you are not a fan of The Idea Room on Facebook, you will need to click like first and become a fan. After you become a fan you will need to click on “Get your free gift” in the upper right hand corner of the Idea Room FB page and then click on “Previous Downloads”.

{North Pole Crate Stamp}

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Looking for a slightly different style of “vintage” crate?  Check out this crate I made last year which is now perched in my family room!

DIY Vintage Crate Tutorial

DIY-crate a

DIY Wood Box

*This is a sponsored post on behalf of Lowe’s.

Another month, another Lowes Creator Challenge.  This time we were given a few different challenges, I chose to make a table centerpiece.  I know I have made some in the past…like the following:

Thanksgiving Table Centerpiece

Christmas Table Centerpiece

How to Build a Wood Box

Table Centerpiece

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This time around, instead of building a box, I wanted to see if I could core out a wooden pine beam and make a centerpiece out of it.  This way those of you who are not inclined to build your own box can make one this other unconventional way!  Plus it was fun to challenge myself to try something out of the box (pun intended)!

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We picked up a 4 x 6 pine wood beam from Lowe’s.

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We decided to fill it with succulents so that they would be easy to maintain, especially because I don’t have the greenest thumb.

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We determined how long we wanted it and settled on 28.5 inches in length.  We cut it with a circular saw.

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Determine how deep on the sides how big you want the center cut out hole or trough to be and draw a line with a pencil for a guide.  Then take a 1.5 inch drill bit and drill down into the wood.  Be sure to NOT drill all the way through the wood so that the dirt and water stay in the box.  (You can drill a small drain hole, for the excess water, if you want…we did not).

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Drill 4 holes, one in each corner.  Then take your circular saw and cut lines from the drill holes along the beam.  You are just breaking up the wood so that you can easily chisel it out.

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Take a hammer and chisel and break out the wood carefully.  Please remember to wear protective eye covering and gloves as an extra precaution.

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Clean out the center of the box as cleanly as possible.

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When it is all cleaned out you can sand the inside but it won’t be noticeable so it is up to you.  We sanded along the top edges and a little on the bottom to remove any splinters or really sharp edges.

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Then stain or paint your wood box.  We stained ours with MinWax’s Red Mahogany.

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Fill your planter with a good potting soil and then fill it in with your succulents or plants of your choice.  You could also fill it in with candles or some Christmas ornaments!

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And that is it.  This was one of the easiest projects to complete and really took all of about an hour (if you don’t count the down time waiting for the stain to dry.  I have used it out on our back deck patio all summer.  Now that it is colder we moved it inside and it is now sitting in our laundry room window sill!

build-a-planter

And…this DIY Wood Box project of mine was picked by Lowe’s to be featured in the online November 2013 edition of Lowes Creative Ideas using the iPhone or iPad app! You might also want to sign up for Lowe’s Creative Ideas Magazine. It’s FREE and offers a bunch of DIY inspiration. Go ahead and connect with Lowes Creative Ideas to find a lot more fun and creative ideas.

Thanksgiving-centerpiece

If you are interested in how I made these DIY Table Linens, you can find this post here:

 {Thanksgiving Table Centerpiece}

Thanksgiving

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*Disclosure: This is a sponsored post.  Lowe’s provided me with a gift card to showcase a project this month as part of their Lowe’s Creative Ideas Bloggers team.  However all opinions and statements are mine.

DIY Tufted Headboard–Part 2

Recently I shared with you how we made this Tufted Headboard for our youngest daughter’s room.  I just covered the first part for how we made the bed and the cut out headboard. Today, I want to share with you how we did the actual Tufting.

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To see the first tutorial you can find it here:

{DIY Tufted Headboard—Part One}

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You will need the following supplies to make your Tufted Headboard:

  • Piece of MDF board cut to your specifications
  • 2 inch foam (we found ours at JoAnn’s)
  • Drill and 3/8 inch Drill Bit
  • Quilt Batting
  • Waxed Thread (JoAnn’s)
  • Button Making Kit with enough buttons for your project (JoAnn’s)
  • Material for the tufted headboard
  • Staple Gun and Staples

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1.png

 

 

 

(Cut your MDF (if needed) to the specific size you need.  Ours was cut out from the headboard, so we did not need to cut it anymore).  See Part One for more details on this:

{DIY Tufted Headboard—Part One}

Figure out where you want your buttons.  Do you want a square tuft or a diamond tuft?  We went for the diamond tuft.  Draw a dot with a pencil on the headboard where you will be drilling your holes.  Then drill all the way through the MDF board with a drill and drill bit.  We used a 3/8 inch drill bit.

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2

Cut your foam so that it fits your MDF headboard with just a tiny bit of overlap around the edges.  We had to piece ours at the bottom.  We added the piece to the bottom where it would be more hidden by the pillows on the bed just incase it didn’t piece well together.  We did not end up having any issues with this though at all in our finished head board.

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3

Cover both the MDF headboard and the foam with your quilt batting.  Then pull the batting around the sides and secure it using a staple gun to the back of your headboard.  Pull it so that it is nice and tight with no puckers or ripples on the front of the headboard.  This will hold everything nicely in place and will give you a nice smooth finished product.  Cut off any excess quilt batting.

*You will most likely need two people to do this and the following steps.

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4

Now take your Fabric you are using for your headboard and wrap it around the headboard the same way you did the quilt batting.  Be sure to be very careful with the edges.  Pull the material tightly and secure with several staples on the back of the headboard.  Trim any excess material.

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5

Set aside your headboard and use your Fabric scraps to make your tufting buttons.  Simply follow the directions on the back of the package and make enough buttons for your headboard.  We used the buttons that were 1 1/8 inches in size.

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6

Take a large needle, we used a very long and large quilting needle that had a large eye.  It needs to be able to be long enough to go through the 2 inch thick foam and the headboard.  We threaded the buttons onto the needle with the waxed thread and doubled it for strength.

My husband was at the back of the headboard and I was at the front.  He poked the needle through the hole from the back end, just to make a small hole so we could see where to put the needle and thread so the button would be in the right spot.  Then I took the needle from him and threaded it with the button (or you can use two needles so you don’t have to keep swapping).  I pushed the needle through the front and he took it on the back.  I pushed the button in to make a deep tuft while my husband pulled from the other side and simultaneously stapled the thread several times on the back of the headboard to hold the button in place.

We repeated this process for all of the buttons.

Be sure to push in each button the same so that they are even in the front.  This is important for the overall look of your tufting.  We ended up fixing one button that was not pushed in far enough after inspecting the final headboard.

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That is it! You should be done with the tufting! Wasn’t that easier than you thought it would be?

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We then took the headboard and inserted it into the cut out from the original bed.  This now gives us a nice frame around the headboard and also hides the sides of the tufted head board and gives it a nice clean finish!

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On the back of the headboard, we screwed in some metal brace plates to hold the head board in place and so that it would not fall out on our little one’s head.  This secures it nicely in place.

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I have to tell you…this is seriously one of my FAVORITE projects we have ever built.  I LOVE it! I can’t wait to finish up the rest of her room.  The other side is currently a mess.  Next thing up is to paint her dresser!

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I had many ask about her night stand.  It is from Target and it is a few years old and is a hand me down from her older sister.  It was white and in need of some serious TLC.  So I cleaned it up and spray painted it gray with Rust-oleum Spray Paint in Granite in a Satin finish.

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Would love to know if any of you end up making one! xo

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