Bushel and A Peck Pillow

I am finally able to share with you this Bushel and A Peck Pillow, which is one of the very first projects I made with the new Cricut Explore machine. You may remember when I shared with you about how I came to love Cricut’s new machine. I shared with you a sneak peak of this pillow and many of you asked how you could get one for yourself! Well today is that day (and yes…there are STILL no pictures in my photo frames…ha…I give up ;)…


I, for one, particularly LOVE this pillow and project.  My mom used to sing this to us when we were little.  I think that many of you may feel the same way about this fun little song.  So I thought, since I have sung it to my kids, it would be fun to display it in our home.


I simply made a pillow cover using this pillow cover tutorial I have shared with you earlier.  I made it out of a painter’s drop cloth.  I have almost used up that drop cloth now after using it for several pillows and other projects around my home.

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Then, using the Cricut Design Space, I designed this fun phrase from the song and cut it out in vinyl.  You can cut it out in iron on transfer material if you want, but I wanted to stencil the words on so that it had a more faded vintage look to it.  Either way will work great, depending on your own tastes.

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I used the vinyl as a stencil for the pillow and stenciled it on with some black fabric paint.

Be sure to put a piece of paper or cardboard in between the layers of fabric (especially if you use a thinner fabric) so that the paint does not bleed through onto the back of the pillow.


Then after it has dried completely, put your pillow insert in the pillow cover and display in your child’s room, nursery or family room.  Right now it is sitting in our family room.  We had it there for Valentine’s as part of our decor…but I have left it out on display because it makes me happy when I see it.  It is a good reminder of when my babies…were…well babies.  I kinda miss that stage!


One of my favorite things about working with Cricut is that you can now MAKE this EXACT project with the click of one button on your own Cricut Explore Machine.  Seriously…how awesome is that?!

It will cut out exactly how I have it here, or you can change it up a bit to fit the size and needs of your own style.  Want to print it out for a painted sign?  Or put on a blanket?  You can do that too…

And? If you don’t have a new Cricut Explore machine, stay tuned…we have something exciting in the works!

cricut make it now button


Click on the image above to see the latest and greatest Cricut products.

Is this a phrase you use in your family? If not, I would love to know what phrase or quote you use!

How to Sew an 18 inch Pillow Cover

I made something else out of that Canvas Drop Cloth…yes…the same Canvas Drop Cloth I have used for these other projects.  Can you believe I still have some of it left.  Ha!  This time I am sharing with you a Christmas Pillow Tutorial today.  I went through all my Christmas décor and donated several items that I had been using for years which included most of my Christmas pillows.  So I wanted to make some more updated ones to go in my home.


I discovered a simple a quick way for how to sew an 18 inch pillow cover that is so simple to make when I made this green pillow for my daughter’s room a couple of months ago.  So I thought I would share the tutorial here with you.  I am also sharing the stencil and file for the Reindeer Pillow and the Red Berry Wreath Pillow so you can make your own of those if you would like.

I didn’t get this post up earlier because for the life of me, I could not find the pictures I took of the pillow making process.  I will look for them and add them when I get a second to track them down.  I like to actually see a photo when I am sewing since it is not something I am really that great at (which is why I stick to beginner sewing projects ;))!


How to Sew an 18 inch Pillow Cover (Envelope)

1.  For an 18 x 18 inch pillow, I cut a rectangle 18.5 inches by 42 inches.  This will result in a 4 inch overlap for the envelope on the back of the pillow. 

2.  Hem both short edges of the fabric by folding the fabric over 1/2 inch and then over again another 1/2 inch.  Iron and stitch down the side.

3.  With your fabric right side up, fold over one side toward the center.  For the 4 inch overlap, make the fold about 10″ from the hemmed edge.  The first side you fold over will be the side that shows on the back of the pillow.  Keep this in mind if one side looks better than the other.

4.  Now fold over the other side, so the fabric measures 18 by 18.5 inches.  I use my quilting ruler or a yard stick and measure so that with both ends folded in, the width of the cover is 18 inches. 

5.  Sew a 1/4″ seam along each side of the folded fabric.  Be sure to pin before sewing so that your material does not slip or you may end up with some fabric that does not get sewn properly. 

6.  Turn the pillow cover inside out.  Place your pillow insert inside the pillow.


For the Reindeer Pillow, I cut the reindeer head and the Ho, Ho, Ho out in some fun gold iron on material.  I LOVES it!  If you don’t have that ability, you can cut it out in a stencil and paint them gold (or your preferred color).

I used Cricut® Iron-on Glitter, Gold and its awesome!


With the Red Berry Wreath Pillow, I simply stenciled on the pillow cover with some red fabric paint.

You can download the pillow patterns here:

{Reindeer Pillow}

{Red Berry Wreath Pillow}

*If you are not a fan of The Idea Room on Facebook, you will need to click like first and become a fan. After you become a fan you will need to click on “Get your free gift” in the upper right hand corner of the Idea Room FB page and then click on “Previous Downloads”.


Interested in checking out other Idea Room projects that have used a Paint Drop Cloth?  Check these out:

Thanksgiving Table Linens

Monogrammed Table Runner

Thanksgiving Hostess Gift

Monogrammed Bottle Gift Bag

Christmas Gift Bags

Neighbor Cookie Mix Gift

Monogrammed Table Runner

Last week I shared with you the simple Thanksgiving Table Centerpiece that I recently made for our Thanksgiving Feast.  I also shared how to Build Your Own Box for the centerpiece.  Did I mention that Thanksgiving is at my house for the FIRST time with our entire family?!!  I have the centerpiece covered now but it needed a little something extra, so I decided to make a simple Monogrammed DIY Table Runner.


I have ALWAYS wanted a table runner and FINALLY had the perfect excuse to make one.  It could not be easier.  If you can sew a straight line, this project is for you!


I bought 2 yards of burlap, but any heavier fabric like linen or muslin will work too.  Then measured and cut two pieces…14 in x 88 inches.

My table (which actually has not been built yet…long story…more on that later) is going to measure 60 inches square.  I wanted the runner to hang over the edge of the table, 14 inches, on each end.  So that meant that I needed a total length of 88 inches (60 inches for the table + 14 inches +14 inches = 88 inches).

Since everyone has different sized tables, you will need to figure out what length and width you would like your runner to be and plan accordingly.  You can also make a table runner that just lays on the table and doesn’t hang over the edge like I show in some of the final pictures.


Then I took the two pieces and pinned them together with the wrong side of the material facing each other. Then sew some black (or another color) bias tape around the entire table runner.  Now some people freak out about sewing on bias tape.

*Here is a little trick that I do that makes it a LOT easier to work with.  I don’t actually pin mine on.  I sew slowly and put it in the correct place and sew it on as I go.  It makes it so much easier for me and it doesn’t pucker.  Also, make sure to put the side of the bias tape that is slightly wider on the bottom so you are sure to catch it with the thread.

box-04_thumb  box-05_thumb

Then I made a simple stencil with my Silhouette Cameo and some vinyl.  I cut out two of them to stencil a monogram on each end of the table runner.

Table Runner-18

This is another project that you could whip up in an hour or during naptime pretty easily.  Now…here is where I fess up to a little secret…I actually have NOT finished this table runner completely.  Gasp!


My sewing machine suddenly just quit working MID Project!! Gah! So I have to get it fixed or run up to my mom’s and finish it before Thanksgiving. BUT—I wanted you to be able to make one if you wanted too and give you enough time to get it done before the big holiday rush. So don’t look TOO closely ;)!! You can see the pins in a couple of places which I just put in there to hold the bias tape on for pictures! #keepingitrealpeople


But even halfway finished, I am really excited about how it turned out!  I love how simple it is but it adds a little extra “umph” to your Holiday setting!


Oh…and as I alluded to above, we currently do not have a kitchen table that fits our entire family.  We have a square table that seats 6 and now that the baby is no longer a baby in a high chair (she’s 5!!) we have to pull out an extra chair to fit us all around.  My boys are both now full sized adults and we are running out of room (and food)!

We have searched high and low for a table that would fit our odd space and our family.  What we have found is way out of our budget…so…we are going to build one.  I KNOW!!  Think we can do it before Thanksgiving?  We will see.  Life gets crazy so we are going to have to play this one by ear and see how it goes…!

Linking up here:  Not Just a Housewife

DIY Hot Pads

fall festival banner

Hello Everyone!

I am Desirée visiting from The 36th AVENUE.

The 36th AVENUE

I am sharing today with you a quick tutorial of how to give an

ordinary set of Dollar Store Hot Pads a little Fall makeover.

Isn’t it fun?

Before I share the tutorial let me thank Amy for having me.

I love The Idea Room and I feel honored to be part of her fantastic blog for a day.

I am a lucky girl!

OK, are we ready for the tutorial?

Let’s do it!


You don’t need much.

1 Hot Pad Glove

Square Hot Pads

{ You can find them at the Dollar Store. The squares hot pads comes in a set of two }

1/4 Yard of Fabric of your choice.

{ I found mine at Jo-Anns, but you can use a fabric scrap if you have some around }


{ My buttons came from Wal-Mart }


This was so easy and quick to make.

FIRST cut a strip of fabric long enough to cover the width of your glove.

I cut mine 4 inches wide.

Fold the fabric in half and then fold the unfinished top again about half an inch.

Just like the picture.

I like to use my iron to make every fold perfect and crisp.


Use one of the square hot pad as a mold to cut another piece of fabric.

You are going to use this fabric to make a pocket.

After you cut the fabric fold the ends of it.

Iron it.

Turn it around and sew it to the hot pad.

THIRD do the same thing with the strip sewing it around the top of the glove and

attach the buttons in place…They are so cute!

And you are done!

These would make a great gift for neighbors or the lucky one hosting Thanksgiving this year.

I am giving mine as a gift to a good friend of mine

with our favorite delicious Pumpkin Bread.


I hope you stop by The 36th AVENUE and say hi.

Make sure to check out our Pumpkin Bread Recipe here.

You are going to love it!

Thank you again Amy for having me today.

I love it here!


Desiree Campbell


The 36th AVENUE

Don’t you just LOVE Desirée? So is so talented and one of the sweetest people I have ever met.  I LOVE this project too.  Such a fun and simple gift idea.  Be sure to head on over to Desirée’s site, The 36th AVENUE and check out her other amazing ideas.  She is full of them!  Thanks Desirée!–Amy

Chalk Board Tees and More

I have been wanting to make one of these fun Chalk Board T-shirts and finally had a chance to get around to making one now that the kids are back in school.   The chalk board cloth may or may not have been sitting in the JoAnn’s bag on my craft room floor for almost 4 months now….   I had wanted to make some for the kids for their last day of school with a big chalk board square on the back of the shirt so all of their friends could sign it like a yearbook.  Then I thought it would be fun to get a picture of it!  But…alas…it never happened.  I just never found the time.  But I totally plan on doing it this year!

And I am really glad I finally made them.  They are a lot of fun and my kids LOVE them.  And I like that they are a fun and unique way to let your child’s personality show.  The possibilities are endless.

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And you are never going to guess just how easy it is to apply.  I found my chalk board cloth at JoAnn’s in their specialty fabric section.  I believe is was $4.99 a yard…but I bought it a while ago and my memory is not what it used to be! 

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I simply made a simple pattern of the shape I wanted to make the chalk board cloth into and cut it out.  It cut so easily and smoothly.  As you can see, I used chalk to make an outline of the pattern and then just simply erased it.

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Then I just glued it onto the shirts with this Fabri-Tac.  So EASY!!!  I was going to sew it, but figured I would give this a try as I was too lazy to pull out the sewing machine which has been in storage since school got out in early June.  Some day, maybe I will get the energy to pull that baby out again!  And so far, with some use and a couple of washes, it seems to be holding up really well.  Bonus!

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Before you can write on the cloth with the chalk, you will need to “prime” it by rubbing the side of a piece of chalk all over the surface of the cloth.  Then simply wipe it off and it is ready to go.  I did this after each washing too.

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I also made my son this tie t-shirt!  He loves it and thinks it is a great option for wearing to church.  Not really what I had in mind, but fun to wear around the house.  How fun would this be on a little baby onesie?  I think I will make one for the next baby boy gift I need.  Or how about a chalk board in the shape of a  little guitar?  Or flowers?  Or Mickey Mouse?  Or for pictures on the first day of school with their grade written on the shirt!  Gah!

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So many fun ways to dress up a simple t-shirt and make it a lot more fun and unique.  And…I am planning on using the left over chalk board cloth for another fun and unique project.  Stay tuned for that one!

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If you were to make one…what would you use it for?

Fridge Pocket for Small Storage Items

Hi Idea Room readers – it’s Becky from the Clean Mama blog and Clean Mama Printables.  Today’s Organizational Tip is to make a Fridge Pocket to hold pens, a small notepad,  and anything else you need to keep handy in the kitchen.  I needed a little something to store pens and such on the side of the fridge.  I looked through my fabric stash and found some leftover oilcloth – perfect!  
 You could easily use regular fabric that was heavily starched or with some fusible webbing with similar results. 
I simply started with two pieces of oilcloth – one cut to about 16 inches x 6 inches and one cut to 10 inches x 4 inches (these dimensions can be changed to accommodate your own pocket and how much or how little you want to store in them). 
Then I folded the smaller piece of oilcloth in half (with the wrong side out) and stitched along the bottom of each piece of oilcloth – like this.  Word to the wise – oilcloth is MUCH thicker than regular fabric, so tread slowly and carefully with your sewing machine.
Then I stitched all the way up one side and a little over half way up the other side – like a pillow.

Carefully turn it right side out and fold in the side that didn’t get stitched up – you should hand stitch this closed, but I opted for pinning and holding it together until I sewed it on the larger piece.
Position the pocket onto the larger piece of fabric and sew down the bottom and sides, leaving the the top open for your pens and such.  (This picture is before I sewed it down.)
Turn the larger piece inside out and stitch along the bottom edge like this.
I then turned the piece right-side out, folded the seams in and stitched up both sides – probably not proper stitchery, but it worked for me.
Once the sides were stitched up, I attached a 4 x 6 inch  magnet sticker to the back.
And now I have this handy little fridge friend/pocket to keep these little tools close by.

Need a step-by-step tutorial?  Go here to get this printable.  Enjoy!



Fabric Interfacing with Silhouette—Monogrammed Hand Towels


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I recently received some of the new ”Sewable” Fabric Interfacing from Silhouette America to test out in my Silhouette Machine.  I have been wanting to make some Monogrammed Hand Towels since making this stenciled hand towel for Valentine’s Day.  I was initially planning on stenciling them but immediately changed my mind when the sewable fabric interfacing arrived.  This project literally took me about 15 minutes to complete and I had all the products already on hand…Love it when that happens!


It was a really easy process.  First I simply made an “H” in my Silhouette program using Times New Roman font, 4 inches tall.

 monogrammed towel 4wm

Then I took a large rectangle of some black and white polka dot fabric that I had left-over from another projects {found at JoAnn’s a couple of years ago}, and ironed it directly onto the fabric interfacing {on the opposite side of the paper}.  Make sure the right side of your fabric is facing up.

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Then I took my scissors and cut out around the material and folded up the unused fabric interfacing and saved it for future projects.

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Peel away the paper layer from the back of the material.

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Then for the best part.  Cut out your fabric with your Silhouette Machine.  This is seriously so awesome!  I think it has to be one of my favorite features of the Silhouette America machine.


To cut the fabric, simply place the fabric and the interfacing onto the Silhouette cutting mat.  I cut mine with settings at a speed of 3 and a thickness of 33 and it  cut the fabric perfectly!  Oh man!  I LOVE this feature!  Where was this when I was cutting all those circles for The Heartfelt Wreath??

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Simply peel away the outside fabric so that you are left with your letter.

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Carefully peel your letter from the Silhouette Mat.  Then I took a white hand towel that I found in a two Pack from Wal-Mart.  I folded the hand towel in half lengthwise so that I would know where the exact middle of the towel was.  Then I gently folded my letter in half and placed it on the lower half of the towel to get a good centered placement.

 monogrammed towel 7wm

Hold your letter carefully in place and unfold your towel and you should have a good centered placement of your monogrammed letter.  Iron the letter into place on the towel.  This is a temporary hold so that you can sew it into place.

 monogrammed towel 8wm

I sewed around all of the edges with some white thread so that the stitching would stand out a bit and made sure to back stitch to keep it on the towel permanently and securely. 


And that is it!  Super simple right?  If you don’t sew on a sewing machine, this would be just as easy to do with some simple hand stitching!  And if you don’t have a silhouette machine, you could simply stencil them with fabric paint or cut out your own letter by tracing onto your fabric and cutting it out with a pair of scissors.  Because it is one letter it shouldn’t be too difficult or time consuming.  These would be great wedding, shower, Christmas or even birthday gifts! 

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I like them so much I want to make one for the kitchen and some other bathrooms…and why not all my friends.  This project cost me a total of $1.25…or the price on one hand towel…Not too bad…ehhh?


And guess what?  As a Silhouette affiliate I am able to offer my readers a special promotion good only this week, March 21-27th! What is this great deal? Use the promo code IDEAROOM at checkout when you purchase a Silhouette SD, you will also receive one package of each fabric interfacing (clean cut & sewable) and a roll of white flocked heat transfer material for only $229. If you already have a Silhouette, use the promo code IDEAROOM at checkout to receive a 25% discount on fabric interfacing.  But hurry it is only good through March 27th. Silhouette Electronic Cutting Tool

 Click on button if you are interested in this promotion and it will take you right to Silhouette’s site.


 **I did not get paid any compensation for this post. I did however receive some Sewable Fabric Interfacing to keep for my own and review.  All opinions are mine and mine alone.

DIY Stuffed Animal Easter Baskets

 DIY Easter Basket
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Easter is quickly approaching and will be here before we know it. At our house we set out our Easter Baskets with a plate of carrots for the Easter Bunny to snack on during his visit. He then hides the baskets full of small goodies for each child to find the following morning.

Each child has their own basket. This year I thought it would be fun to repurpose some old stuffed animals and make them into Easter Baskets. We had this duck laying around just adding to our playroom clutter. I gave him a little makeover. You can too by following these simple directions.

You will need:
Medium to Large stuffed animal with a large belly
1/4 yard fabric (more or less depending on the size of the animal)
1/4 yard Fusible Interfacing (I used heavier weight)
needle and thread
bias tape (optional–I used a strip of fabric)
Take some scissors and cut a line up the middle of the animal’s belly. Remove the stuffing from the middle, but leave the stuffing in the head, arms and legs. Then cut a nice, round opening for the basket.
Then take your pattern, which can be downloaded here, and cut out 6-8 pieces (depending on the size of your animal) along with 1 circle from your fabric. You will also need to cut the same amount of pieces of the fusible interfacing using the same pattern pieces.
Iron the fusible interfacing onto the wrong side of each piece of cut fabric. Then sew all the pieces together on your sewing machine using a 5/8 inch seam allowance with the right sides of the fabric together.
**Be sure to sew the pieces so that the smaller ends of the sides are facing the same direction.
When all the sides are sewn together (but before you sew it into a circle), place the material inside the hole in the belly and see if you need to add any more side pieces. I needed 8 sides to make a basket that fit into the hole. If you need less than 8, you may need to re-size the bottom circle pattern to fit correctly.
Once you have the correct size, sew the two ends together to form a circle. Now take you circle and pin it to the bottom of the sides to make the bottom of your basket. Sew (5/8 inch) seam around the bottom. Turn right side out and place into the hole. If it is too tall, you can cut it down to size but make sure to sew along the top again to reinforce your seams. If it is not deep enough, add some of the stuffing you removed into the bottom of the hole until it fits well.
Take a needle and thread and sew around the top of the basket attaching it to the stuffed animal. You can use your machine if you can fit it in there. My stuffed animal was too bulky for that.
Now, take some bias tape or a strip of material to sew around the top edge of the basket.
**I took a strip of the same fabric measuring 26 inches by 1.75 inches. Iron the strip and then iron the right and left edges so that they are folded inward on each side 1/4 inch. Then fold together lengthwise so that the edges are inside and the right side of the material is on the outside with no frayed ends showing. Iron flat.

Take your strip (or bias tape) and sew it onto the top edge of the basket placing the fold directly on the top. I did this by hand as well.
Next, is the handle. You can make the handle as long as you would like. I cut a strip of material measuring 4 inches by 16.5 inches. I also cut a strip of fusible interfacing that measured the same 16.5 inches in length but only 1 inch wide. Iron this strip the same way you would for making the “bias tape” above. Wrap your fabric around the interfacing so that the seams overlap on the bottom side of the handle. Iron together. Sew a seam down the entire length of the handle to secure the fabric.
All that is left now is to attach the handle to the inside of the basket with a needle and thread!
The whole process took me just over an hour during nap time one day! I love how it turned out and my girls did too! Unfortunately I only have one…Guess I need to head on over to the thrift store and find me two more suitable stuffed animals!

**Download pattern here.


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Personalized Tote Bag


I am loving my Silhouette machine. I recently personalized my daughter’s tote bag that she uses to hold her violin music as she goes to and from her lessons. It was super easy.

I downloaded a picture of a butterfly from Silhouette’s online shop and then added my daughter’s name (which I have blurred in the pics). Then I cut it out on some transfer paper using my Silhoutte machine.


Then I simply ironed it onto the bag. These bags can be found in many craft stores or there are many free tutorials online that show you how you can make your own. Then because I thought it needed a little more, I sewed a black and white polka dot ribbon onto the bag as well!


A quick and easy project!


Double Layer Top/Dress Tutorial

We have another tutorial today from an Idea Room Reader. Christine at From An Igloo, shares with us how to make an adorable layered top/dress for your daughter that is fun and summery! Thanks Christine for sharing with us!

Last summer I made my girls several shirred sundresses. A tube of fabric shirred with tie straps. They were cute, and easy to sew, but this year I felt like coming up with something a little different.

Here is what I came up with. Just as easy to sew, but I think so much cuter! The double layer adds a really nice weight to the top (I’ve made two tops so far, but with added length this would make a very cute dress as well), and just a little bit of “poof”. You could add a contrasting fabric to the hemline of one skirt panel to get the same colour effect, but I think the nice weight it adds to the top is worth the extra fabric! The armhole shaping also allows the bodice to sit a little higher in the front which I like. This top feels expensive and could easily be dressy, but is adorable for everyday as well! :)

Don’t you just love this Amy Butler fabric? 

Keep reading, I have an easy tutorial for you and you can make one too!
Use a 1/4 inch seam allowance unless otherwise stated.

Ok my friends, your pieces should look something like this when you are done cutting. I swear this is the same fabric, not sure why this picture is so bright!

Following are your pieces and how you should measure them:

You have a decision to make. You can just purchase a package of double fold bias tape and you are good to go. Or, you can make your own.

I wanted my straps to be of the same fabric as my top, so I made my own. I’ll show you how. First though just worry about the cutting. I would say for all sizes from 2-7 you will be fine with two pieces 2 inches X 26 inches . You need to cut these two strips on the bias. This means on the diagonal of your fabric. Not up and down or side to side. Cutting on the diagonal is what will enable your fabric to stretch a little and sew around a curve easier. If you want large bows when you tie them, make your strap pieces a little longer

If you use packaged bias tape cut two strips 26 inches long.

Measure all the way around your child’s chest. Now take this measurement and multiply it by 1.5. Add 1 inch. Example: My child’s measurement is 22 inches X 1.5 = 33 inches + 1 inch = 34 inches

This will be the length you will cut. For the width….

Sizes 2/3 cut 4 inches
Sizes 4/5 cut 5 inches
Sizes 6/7 cut 6 inches

So my daughter is 6. I am going to cut a piece of fabric 34 inches by 6 inches.

Disclaimer: These widths are what I would use. They may be too long or short of a bodice for your child. For best results measure on your child how wide you think the bodice should be and add 3/4 inch for seam allowance. Measurements above have seam allowance factored in.

Now you have one piece of fabric. Cut it in half lengthwise. So, I am going to cut my 34 inch X 6 inch piece so that it is now two pieces that will measure 17 inches X 6 inches each.

Skirt Pieces:
You need to decide if this is going to be a top or a dress. Hold one of your bodice pieces up to your child at collarbone height. Measure from the bottom of the bodice piece to where you want the top or dress to fall. Add 1 inch.

For me, this measurement was 14 inches. Cut your piece the full width of your fabric

So, I am cutting a piece 14 inches X the full width of my fabric. This is going to be the under layer of your top or dress. Use your contrasting fabric.

For the top layer, cut a piece that is 3 inches shorter than the previous piece. So, my top layer piece will be 11 inches X the full width of my fabric

Using the full width will produce a nice result for all sizes mentioned. For the smaller chest sizes this will result in a slightly fuller skirt or top.

Now this is a not so scientific way of making that nice curve on the sides of your bodice for your child’s arms. Take a large coffee mug of small bowl and position it so that it is approx 2.5 inches up from the bottom and two inches in from the side draw that nice curved line. As you can see my mug starts curving around at the top, but we will want this to go straight up so draw accordingly. See next photo. Don’t be scared here, if your mug is a little lower or higher this is still going to be ok, promise! We are just making a nice spot for your child’s underarms so the fabric does not rub and bother them! It also enables the front of the bodice to sit a little higher than it would if you didn’t so this.

Cut out the fabric at the line you just drew. As you can see I have folded my bodice in half so that I can cut both sides at the same time. Now use this bodice to cut your second bodice piece.

Let’s do our pressing. Take your two bodice pieces and press the top edge in 1/4 inch and then in again another 1/4 inch.

Now your skirt pieces. Press the bottom up 1/4 inch and then up 1/2 inch on both pieces.

Sew the top edges of your bodice pieces where you have pressed, enclosing the raw edges.

Take your two bodice pieces right sides together and sew the side seams. Finish your seam allowance with a zig zag stitch. Set bodice aside.

Take one of your skirt pieces and right sides together sew down the short edge creating a “tube”. Make sure to zig zag your seam allowance.

Now, I think skirt panels should have side seams.  Lay your tube out flat with the seam you have just sewn on one side. The side opposite sew a line of stitching down to create an opposite side seam. You won’t need to zig zag this seam allowance as it will be on a folded edge.

Fold back up your pressed bottom edge and hem 1/2 inch up from bottom.

Do the previous three steps with your other skirt panel.

I’ve lost a couple of pictures, but this is easy, I don’t think I’ll lose yah.
Right sides in take both of your skirt panels and put your shorter one inside the longer one. Make sure raw edges and side seams are even.

Make two rows of gathering stitches and gather to fit your bodice. You will want to put your bodice inside your skirt panels right side of bodice facing right side of skirt panels. The raw edge on bottom of bodice should be even with raw edge of skirt panels. match side seams. Good idea to pin.

Your skirt panel will not be as gathered as this photo. I took the photo before evening out the panels to be the same size as the bodice.

Sew, attaching bodice to skirt panels. Zig zag seam allowance.

Press seam up towards bodice and topstitch about 1/8 inch in.

Starting about 1/2 in from the top of your bodice do several rows of shirring from the top of your bodice to the bottom. Do the same on both sides of the bodice. If you have never shirred before, I talk more about shirring in THIS tutorial. I did my shirring 1/8 inch apart on this top but you could go farther apart.

Shirring after pressing. It tightens up a lot! Set your top or dress aside.

If you are using packaged bias tape you can skip this part. Here I will show you how to make your strips into bias tape. First fold your pieces in half lengthwise and press.

Open up your piece and press each side in to the middle.

Fold back in half lengthwise and give it a good press. Easy peasy.

Take one of your pieces and mark the midpoint. Match up the midpoint with the side seam of your dress. If you are using the packaged stuff join in.

With your bodice sandwiched in the midde of your bias tape fold pin around your armhole.

Make sure you fold in the end of your pieces to enclose the raw edges. Sew from one end of your piece to the other around your armhole.

One strap is done! See how this encloses the raw edge of your bodice so nicely? Now do the other side.

Add some cute little buttons or other embellishment to the front if you wish and your’re done!

Don’t forget to share your photos on our Flickr Group.


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