DIY Polka Dot Shoes

I recently shared this post as a guest poster over at The Polka Dot Chair and am excited to share it with you here today.  If you know me, you know that I LOVE me some polka dots.  Polka dots remind me of my grandmother because she loved to wear polka dots.


I have had my eye on some polka dot converse shoes for a while now but didn’t want to pay what they were asking for them.  This challenge was the perfect excuse, so I did what any DIY’er would do…I made some polka dot shoes.

gray-and-polka-dotsI picked up some shoes at my favorite store Target for a great price and they happened to be on sale…buy one get one half off!  Once you have your shoe of choice, you simply need a few other items to create them.

Materials needed to make DIY Polka Dot Shoes:


Fabric Paint in the color of your choice

an un-used pencil eraser (on a pencil)

a polka dot stencil or a ruler

polka-dot-shoes 4_edited-1

Take your stencil and trace where you will be placing the polka dots.  Make sure your pencil eraser is slightly larger than the polka dots you have drawn.  If it is not bigger, don’t draw a full circle but just place a dot so you don’t see the pencil on the shoe when you are finished.

Polka-dot-shoes_edited-1Dip the pencil eraser into your paint and then place it on the marked dots on the shoes.  Repeat over and over until the shoe is covered in polka dots. Let them fully dry and then you are ready to wear them!

Aren’t they so fun? My daughter has claimed this pair for herself…it’s a good thing the shoes were buy one get one half off!


DIY Kid’s Grocery Stand

Last year (2012)for Christmas, Santa brought our youngest her very own Grocery Stand.  With 4 older siblings, we just didn’t need! We already had a bunch of “groceries” that the kids were playing with in their playroom, but didn’t have a fun way to store or display it.  So, Santa thought it would be a great idea to make a DIY Grocery Stand.  I can’t believe I haven’t shared this with you yet (over a year ago), but nevertheless, here it is.  Once again…please excuse the bad cell phone pictures.  Still waiting on my camera that is going to be replacing the one that just broke.


We started out by building a basic shelf design.  Instead of closing off the sides of the grocery stand, we left them open so that the design and expense was very minimal.


We have three flat shelves (including the top shelf) and then we tilted the 2nd shelf so that it was at an angle for the baskets.  We had the baskets beforehand and used them to determine how wide and deep to build the grocery stand.  We didn’t want to have to find the right size of basket AFTER it was built.  The baskets came from Home Goods.


We built a top section of the stand so that we could hang a “GROCERY” sign from the top…which is one of my favorite parts.  We simply attached the sign with some eyehooks.  The sign was made with some vinyl I cut on my cutting machine.


Of course we had to have a fun little kids sized grocery bag.  I made this with some felt and have plans to share with you the pattern here in an upcoming post.  I added the iron-on words and recycle sign with some iron on material…or you could stencil it on.


In true…DIYer fashion…this was a terribly last minute project.  We didn’t know how to keep it under wraps so it was literally thrown together in two nights.  The first night it was assembled and the second night (Christmas Eve) it was painted.  The paint was literally drying under the Christmas tree haha!


But all is good that ends well.  It was a hit!  It continues to get a lot of use and the kids (even the big kids) enjoy playing with it.  I can’t tell you how many times I have eaten a wooden pizza washed down with a pretend gallon of milk.

build-kid- kitchen

The inspiration for this project came about because she wanted this Melissa and Doug Grocery Cart for her birthday (which was a couple of months before Christmas).  It was just begging for a little grocery store!


DIY Growth Chart Tutorial

I have been wanting to build a Growth Chart for a couple of years now.  Growing up, we had a wall dedicated to tracking my siblings and my growth over the years and it has been so fun to look back and see how tall we were compared to each other and to my own children at the same ages.


When we moved into this home almost 11 years ago we dedicated a wall in my youngest daughters room for the same thing.  But, I always wanted to have a portable one so that I could switch things up cause well…I obviously like change…haha!  I finally got around to making one.


I have seen several versions floating around on the internet and fell in LOVE with Cozy Cottage Cute DIY Growth Chart.  Usually if I see something, I like to add my own changes to make it my own personal style…but hers was perfection…so I pretty much copied it with a few exceptions.  Be sure to head on over to her site to see just how she made hers…


Materials needed:

a pine board 1 x 8 x 7 feet (actual measurements are 3/4 x 7 x 7 feet)


white paint

painters tape

coarse sand paper

hand sander (if possible)

number stickers or vinyl 1-6



1.  Stain your board.  We used 2 stains…which is totally unnecessary.  We only did two because we wanted it to match the wood color in our home and the closest match we have found is to mix Minwax’s Jacobbean and Red Mahogony.  Allow board to dry completely after wiping away any excess stain.


2.  Then we taped off the board in 6 inch sections.  And painted every other section with white paint and started so that the bottom 6 inches is white.  We gave it two coats and let it dry completely.  Be sure to pull off the tape while the paint is still slightly wet so you get a nice clean line without the paint pulling up.


3.  Attach your number stickers in the stained section just below the white line above it, which should be every foot on your board so that the white line marks the 1 foot length, the 2 foot length and so on.  Paint your numbers using the vinyl as a stencil for the number.  Pull up the stencil before the paint is fully dry.  Let dry completely.  I made sure I let it dry at least 24 hours so that when I sanded it, the paint didn’t smear.


4.  Then take your hand sander and go to town sanding this baby.  I wanted it to have a real distressed look to it.

We used my new favorite hand sander, Rockwell’s 5 inch Random Orbital Sander.


It is the perfect size for a woman’s hand and is easy to hold and fully control because it only weighs 3 lbs.  I also love that it has a cyclonic filter that sucks all the dust into a little canister instead of allowing the dust to fly everywhere.  LOVE that feature.  It has allowed me to sand my projects inside during the winter months without getting dust everywhere!  It is also the quietest sander I have ever used!


5.  Pay special attention to some of the knots and fun unique characters of your piece of wood and sand those areas to add some interest to the final Growth Chart.  Wipe down the board and you are ready to go!


The hardest part will be trying to figure out WHERE to keep it.  Everyone seems to want it in their room.  We plan to transfer our past measurements to this new chart and marking them on the board with a fine black sharpie.  We just draw a line on one edge of the chart with the child’s initial and the year and month they are in.  For example if we were to measure me right now we would mark a line at 5 feet 8 inches and write  ___ A 40.6 yr.

Yes…I am 40!

And yes…my camera is still dead and I have yet to replace it.  All these photos were taken on my iphone and the quality is killing me people!  So bear with me!! Hoping to get my new camera by this weekend!!

Rolling Storage Drawers

*This is a sponsored post on behalf of Lowe’s.

This month, as a Lowe’s Creator Blogger, one of our challenge choices was to come up with a creative storage idea.  With 5 kids, there is no such thing as too much storage.  I needed some more storage in the girl’s rooms but don’t love when you can see the storage containers sticking out from under the bed.


So I wanted to make some storage spaces that were not only functional but pretty.  Truly a perfectionist’s dream come true!  We made these super easy Rolling Storage Drawers which fit perfectly under my daughter’s bed.  And…I absolutely LOVE them!!


We just made one set, but plan on making more for the other girls rooms.  And we have yet to determine exactly what to store in them…but the options are endless.  We are thinking anything from pajamas, jeans, books, her toys, etc.  And the wheels…I LOVE the wheels!!

You could also make these to go under a book shelf or a T.V. stand…or in a kid’s playroom.  They could really be used anywhere that has a space that you can slide it under.


Want to make some for your house?

I will share with you how we made ours including our specific dimensions.  You can go of of our main design and make any necessary changes in size dimensions so that you can modify them to fit your space.

You will need the following materials for ONE drawer:

  • 3/4 inch piece of plywood or mdf board for the base (ours measured 22 x 22 inches) *Use wood instead of mdf if you are planning on staining them.
  • two 8 foot lengths of 3.5 inch mdf (we got the primed)
  • 4 wheels (we bought wheels that were 2.5 inches in height & swiveled)
  • 16 screws for the wheels (we used 3/4 inch #10 wood screws)
  • a drawer handle or knob (we used the larger crystal knob from Lowe’s)
  • gorilla wood glue
  • staples or small nails
  • eight 1/4 strips of wood to use as corner braces (ours were 5 inches long…two for each corner)
  • sandpaper or sander
  • paint or stain
  • drill
    1.  Determine the length of your space available for your storage drawers.  Then figure out how many drawers you want.  This will help you figure out to big to make each drawer.  You will also need to measure the height you have and figure out the spacing.  Remember to figure in the total height of your wheels too.
    For example our free space under the bed measured 76 inches.  We wanted 3 drawers.  So we made each drawer 23.25 inches square (outside) (rectangle is fine too) which gave us about 6 inches for spacing between the drawers and the ends.

rolling-storage-drawers-22_thumb.jpg  rolling-storage-drawers-1_thumb.jpg

2.  Cut your base out of the mdf or plywood.  We cut our to measure 22 inches square.

3.  Cut your side boards to fit your base.  Our exterior cut was 23.25 inches angled down to 22 inches (remember you need to cut these at a 45 degree angle so they sit at a 90 degree angle on the corners.  We used a miter box saw to cut the angles.  We built it two panels high.

4.  Glue and nail the bottom panels together around the base.  We placed the bottom side panels so that the base was up a 1/4 inch from the bottom of the panels (a 1/4 inch overhang to help lower the height and allow it to fit under the bed).  Let dry.

rolling-storage-drawers_thumb.jpg  rolling-storage-drawers-2_thumb.jpg

5.  Cut the corner braces (ours were 1/4 thick x 5 inches long and either 1.5 or 1.25 inches to allow them to match up in size since one butts up to the other.  Does that make sense?

6.  Glue and staple them in the corners to give your drawer support.  Depending on how big your drawer is, you may need other braces in the middle.

7.  Attach the upper side panels with glue on the bottom and ends and staple the corners.

8.  Caulk all cracks and spaces.  Put putty in nail/staple holes and let dry.

9.  Sand all rough edges and putty spots.  Wipe off excess dust.

rolling-storage-drawers-4_thumb.jpg  rolling-storage-drawers-5_thumb.jpg

10. Attach your wheels to the base of the drawers with your screws.

11. Paint or stain your drawers.

12. Drill a hole (or two depending on your handle) where you want your drawer handle to be and attach the knob.


Repeat process for as many drawers as you need.  The whole project (three drawers) took about 6 hours total from beginning to end spread over two days to allow the glue and the paint to dry.  The wheels and the knobs are the most expensive part of this project.


I am not completely finished with the project as I want to put some fun colored paper in the bottom of the drawers if I can find it in a pattern and color I want.


As always, I would love to see if any of you end up making some!  I love it when you guys email me or leave me a note of FB and share your projects with me!  It makes all my efforts here worth it and I LOVE to get to know who all of you are out there!


Sign up for Lowe’s Creative Ideas Magazine, it’s FREE and offers a bunch of DIY inspiration. Go ahead and connect with Lowes Creative Ideas to find a lot more fun and creative ideas.


*Disclosure: This is a sponsored post.  Lowe’s provided me with a gift card to showcase a project this month as part of their Lowe’s Creative Ideas Bloggers team.  However all opinions and statements are mine.


How to Sew an 18 inch Pillow Cover

I made something else out of that Canvas Drop Cloth…yes…the same Canvas Drop Cloth I have used for these other projects.  Can you believe I still have some of it left.  Ha!  This time I am sharing with you a Christmas Pillow Tutorial today.  I went through all my Christmas décor and donated several items that I had been using for years which included most of my Christmas pillows.  So I wanted to make some more updated ones to go in my home.


I discovered a simple a quick way for how to sew an 18 inch pillow cover that is so simple to make when I made this green pillow for my daughter’s room a couple of months ago.  So I thought I would share the tutorial here with you.  I am also sharing the stencil and file for the Reindeer Pillow and the Red Berry Wreath Pillow so you can make your own of those if you would like.

I didn’t get this post up earlier because for the life of me, I could not find the pictures I took of the pillow making process.  I will look for them and add them when I get a second to track them down.  I like to actually see a photo when I am sewing since it is not something I am really that great at (which is why I stick to beginner sewing projects ;))!


How to Sew an 18 inch Pillow Cover (Envelope)

1.  For an 18 x 18 inch pillow, I cut a rectangle 18.5 inches by 42 inches.  This will result in a 4 inch overlap for the envelope on the back of the pillow. 

2.  Hem both short edges of the fabric by folding the fabric over 1/2 inch and then over again another 1/2 inch.  Iron and stitch down the side.

3.  With your fabric right side up, fold over one side toward the center.  For the 4 inch overlap, make the fold about 10″ from the hemmed edge.  The first side you fold over will be the side that shows on the back of the pillow.  Keep this in mind if one side looks better than the other.

4.  Now fold over the other side, so the fabric measures 18 by 18.5 inches.  I use my quilting ruler or a yard stick and measure so that with both ends folded in, the width of the cover is 18 inches. 

5.  Sew a 1/4″ seam along each side of the folded fabric.  Be sure to pin before sewing so that your material does not slip or you may end up with some fabric that does not get sewn properly. 

6.  Turn the pillow cover inside out.  Place your pillow insert inside the pillow.


For the Reindeer Pillow, I cut the reindeer head and the Ho, Ho, Ho out in some fun gold iron on material.  I LOVES it!  If you don’t have that ability, you can cut it out in a stencil and paint them gold (or your preferred color).

I used Cricut® Iron-on Glitter, Gold and its awesome!


With the Red Berry Wreath Pillow, I simply stenciled on the pillow cover with some red fabric paint.

You can download the pillow patterns here:

{Reindeer Pillow}

{Red Berry Wreath Pillow}

*If you are not a fan of The Idea Room on Facebook, you will need to click like first and become a fan. After you become a fan you will need to click on “Get your free gift” in the upper right hand corner of the Idea Room FB page and then click on “Previous Downloads”.


Interested in checking out other Idea Room projects that have used a Paint Drop Cloth?  Check these out:

Thanksgiving Table Linens

Monogrammed Table Runner

Thanksgiving Hostess Gift

Monogrammed Bottle Gift Bag

Christmas Gift Bags

Neighbor Cookie Mix Gift

DIY Tufted Headboard

*Update 10.20.13–DIY Tufted Headboard–Part 2 has been posted.

You guys! I am so excited to finally be sharing the DIY Tufted Headboard and bed we just finished making  for our youngest daughter.  This bed has been in my head for a couple of years now and it is so exciting to finally see something you have been thinking about for so long become a reality…a reality that you actually LOVE!

I was contacted by Dremel and was challenged to take part in their Dremel Weekends Challenge and I knew that I would finally have an excuse and the push I needed to tackle this project!


This is the third headboard (second whole bed) we have made for our girls and I am always surprised at how easy it actually is.  The beds/headboards we made, I shared with you here: DIY Headboard & Bed and here: Pallet Headboard if you are interested.


I think that this bed is my favorite!  We have had such a crazy last couple of weeks at our house and I am surprised we were able to get this finished.  But we were planning on surprising our daughter with the bed for her birthday so we spent a late night getting it all finished so it would be ready on time.  I love it when a deadline forces you to get something done!


The entire process was actually pretty simple.  I was a bit nervous about the tufted headboard and was quite pleased with how easy it actually was.  It just takes a bit of time so keep that in mind if you want to give this a try at your house.


I will be breaking this down into two separate tutorials since it was pretty involved.  I will be sharing how we created the headboard form today and the tufting later.  WE made the bed frame using Ana White’s tutorial for her Twin Farmhouse Bed, but modified it so that we did not have a foot board.

diy-headboard-1.png  diy-headboard-2.png

Step 1:  We took a 4 x 8 sheet of 3/4 inch MDF board and had Lowes cut it to measure 41 inches wide by 50 inches tall.

Step 2:  We decided we wanted to go with a Belgrave style headboard shape.  I wanted to have a bit of a white frame around the tufted material and we decided that the best way to get a clean look with the curved detail was to cut out the center of the board and use that as our tufted headboard, which would be able to slide right back into place.  This would hide the edge of the tufting and give it a nice clean look.

Step  3:   We took a large bowl and used it as a pattern for the side of the headboard.  The larger the bowl, the less of an arc you will have…which is what I wanted.  The edge/corner of the cut out from the bowl on each side measured 5 inches.

diy-headboard-3.png  diy-headboard-4.png

Step 4:  Then you will need to cut out the middle section.  The middle section (the tufted headboard part) measured approximately 36 inches wide by 25 inches tall.  This gave us a 2.5 inch frame around the top and the sides with 28 inches on the bottom for the base of the headboard (which the bed frame will later attach to).

diy-headboard-6.png  diy-headboard-5.png

Step 5:  We used Dremel’s Saw-Max to cut out the inner section of the headboard frame for the straight cuts.  It was so easy to use and you can start cutting right in the middle of the board.  We also used it to cut the boards for our bed frame.  It is nice to have when you don’t want to pull out your larger table saw.  We found it to be really manageable (especially in a woman’s hand) and it comes with blades to cut through metal and masonry.

For the curved portion, we had to take a small drill bit and drill a few holes along the curve so that we could cut the curves with a jig saw.

 *Ignore the double pencil lines on the right picture above…we had initally thought to have a 2 inch frame and changed it to a 2.5 inch frame at the last minute to give the headboard more stability…which is a choice I am glad we made.

diy-headboard-8.png  diy-headboard-7.png

Step 6:  After the middle section has been cut out…find some cheap labor to clean up your work site. :)…Sand both pieces of wood well and then paint the outer frame. 


I will share how we made the tufted headboard in a later tutorial next week!  I will include a link to it here when I have it ready!


In the meantime…I need to figure out what to hang above her bed now.  I am terrible at the final staging of a room!  Any suggestions?  You guys are always so helpful with these sort of things!  I make the big items and you help me decorate mmm kay?


Using some existing supplies we had on hand we were able to make this bed for just over $110 which is a pretty good price for a bed…especially a tufted bed…and the best part?  You can make it so that it fits your style and tastes EXACTLY!!  I like that!


*I was provided a Dremel Saw-Max and a gift card to complete this project from Dremel.  However all opinions and statements are mine and mine alone.

*Update 10.20.13–DIY Tufted Headboard–Part 2 has been posted.

DIY Flower Planter

*This is a sponsored post on behalf of Lowe’s.

Every month as a Lowes Creative Blogger, we are challenged to create something within a very broad theme.  This month the theme was Outdoor Décor.  I have a very long retaining wall in my backyard that is just down the steps from my raised deck.  I shared my recent Deck Update here if you are interested.



The wall is pretty ugly and I felt like it detracted from some of the prettier areas of our backyard.  I wanted to find a way to make it into a nice focal point rather than an eye sore.  I also wanted to be able to add some color to the wall.  So I decided to build a DIY Flower Planter out of Redwood.


We picked up some 10 foot lengths of Redwood from Lowes.  We wanted ours to be about 8 feet long (to fit on top of the wall) and about 5 feet wide.  I wanted it to have a slight angle so that the top was wider than the bottom.  So we cut the sides of the planter so that it was at a 10 degree angle and wider on the top than the bottom as you can see in the photo above.

cedar-planter 1

We created it so that it was two layers tall.  We nailed the boards together with a nail gun.  We also wanted to have an open base so that the water could drain out of the planter naturally.  We used some old wood we had laying around and just cut them into squares to fit into the base of the planter and then nailed them into place.  We spaced them apart evenly.  (Six total)


Give your stray kids a job to do to keep them entertained.  This one loves to play with the vacuum so she had the job of sucking up all of the saw dust!

cedar-planter 2

cedar-planter 6

Then we stained the Redwood this lovely color!  It is a nice dark brown with a bit of red tint to it.


After the stain dried completely, we added some corner braces to give the planter some support and to hold the weight of the dirt we would be adding.  We also cut some chicken wire netting to place into the bottom of the planter to drain the water but to hold in the rocks and gravel.

cedar-planter 8

We stapled it with a staple gun in several places to hold it securely in place.  Then we added a strip of plastic around the edges to keep the water from spilling out of the sides where the two layers of the planter are not joining.

cedar-planter 7

Fill the planter with a thin layer of gravel to cover the bottom completely.  Then fill the rest of the planter with some potting soil.  Add some plants and you have a custom built DIY Flower Planter.

As Lowe’s bloggers, we actually work 3 months AHEAD of schedule…so…I actually made this at the end of March.  So, in Utah, things are still pretty cold and snowy around here at times.  The plant selection is pretty sparse and we still can get some cold freezes.  So I just filled it with some really hardy spring plants and a few herbs.

cedar-planter 4

I have since transplanted some of the plants in my yard and traded them for some different ones that are summer hardy.  I will share the updated planter here in a later post when I share some other updates we have made to this area!

cedar-planter 9

See the big, ugly wall?  Well…stay tuned…we have plans for that too!


For more great ideas, you’ll love browsing through:

lowes creative ideas

*Disclosure: This is a sponsored post.  Lowe’s provided me with a gift card to showcase a project this month as part of their Lowe’s Creative Ideas Bloggers team.  However all opinions and statements are mine.

DIY Pallet Headboard

So…I promised this DIY Pallet Headboard Tutorial that we made for my son’s room, several weeks ago…oopsie.  I don’t know what took me so long to finally share this…but nevertheless…here it is for those of you who are interested.

I decided to build the headboard after seeing my friend Char from Crap I’ve Made’s pallet headboard for her daughter’s room.


This is one of the simpler projects we have made.  The hardest part is getting those darn pallets boards off the frame.  Those nail/screws are brutal.  We pried a few off and then just ended up chopping the boards off of the pallet with a chop saw…so much easier!

Some people have raised concerns about possible chemicals in pallets.  If this concerns you, simply use other boards.  You can also google how to make new wood look old.

pallet-headboard 2

Here is what you will need to make your own Pallet Headboard:

Materials and Sizes:

2 – 2X6 48 inches in length

1 – 2X4 61 inches in length

1 – 2X4 50 inches in length

2 – ½ inch plywood pieces 10X22 inches

Enough 40 inch long pallet boards to make a width of 61 ½ inches

headboard-pallet 5

We made the frame by placing the 61 inch 2×4 piece at the top and 2×6 pieces on each edge of the 2×4.

We then placed the bottom of the 50 inch 2×4 28 inches from floor end of the 2x6s.

Then you will need the plywood pieces to provide support to the connections of all the pieces (we inset the plywood ½ inch from the top and side to make the piece hidden from view on the completed head board).


Flip the frame over and lay out the pallet boards on the frame (we had the top and sides over lap the frame by ¼ inch).

Use wood glue and a staple or nail gun to adhere the boards to the frame. Stain and varnish completed the finish.


We drilled holes (aligned with the bed frame) in the bottom of the 2×6 posts of the headboard and then bolted the bed frame securely in place.


That’s really all there is to it.  Such an easy project and it has been perfect in my son’s room.  To see the entire room reveal you can go here:  Boy’s Room Reveal.  We also made a fun Pallet Map for my son’s room.  You can see that here:  Wood Pallet Map.

Wood Pallet Map Tutorial

Several of you requested the tutorial for the wood pallet map we made for my son’s room that I shared with you the other day.  This was a super simple project and cost literally nothing for us other than the cost of the map.  You can’t beat that now can you?


First of all we picked up some pallets for FREE at our local nursery.  They will allow you to take up to 8 pallets before they charge.  Score!

pallets 1

Then comes the tough part.  These pallets have some serious nails holding them together.  It takes some serious muscle strength to get these planks off.  We ended up cutting off the two ends right up to the nails and then just pulling out the middle nails.

Then I took a heavy duty file and sanded down the edges and the rough spots of each plank.

wood-pallet-map 2

Make sure you have enough pallets to have a bit of overhang on the map so you can see your pallet wood.  It gives it an antiqued look.  You can cut your map down a bit so that it fits better too, which is what we did.

We connected the pallet planks together with a piece of plywood on the back and then glued them into place with Gorilla Wood Glue (my favorite wood glue).

wood-pallet-map 10

We found our map on Amazon for a $1! They had a few different styles and we went for a more Old World look.

Trim around the edges in a non-patterned way to give it a more worn look without crisp clean edges.

wood-pallet-map 11

Then take a candle and burn the map around the edges.  We did this outside and had a pitcher of water on hand….just in case.

wood-pallet-map 12

We burnt the map all around the edges and then even burnt some holes in the middle of the map in some of the less prominent areas on the map.

wood-pallet-map 1

Lay your map onto the wood pallets.  This next part you will need and Exact-o Knife to cut the map into long strips.  Now I debated about cutting the map, but I wanted the individual wood planks to show through and give some detail to the map.  I was worried that if I just Mod Podged the map without cutting it, it would just be a flat map.

wood-pallet-map 3

I am SO glad I decided to cut the map.  It added so much more detail and un-perfectness to the overall look.

wood-pallet-map 4

We recruited the kids to help us hold the map into place while we cut it.  We did not want it to move at all and mess up the cut.


We cut the map one section at a time.  When we had a new strip, we Mod Podged it onto the individual plank.


We purposely left a small space between each plank.


After all the strips were glued onto the pallets, we let it dry completely.  Then we put two coats of water-based polycrylic in a satin finish on the map to keep it nice and protected.

wood-pallet-map 13

I LOVE it! And so does my son!  He wants to pin the places he has been to on this map as well.  What do you think?


I was inspired to make this map when I came across this image (below) on Pinterest.  I searched all over to find the original source of the map so I could link back and give credit to who made this and I could not for the life of me find out where it is from.

My search led me to believe that it may have been sold at Hobby Lobby a while ago. If anyone knows where I can find the original site for this I would love to know so I can give them credit and a link!


Homemade Lavender Soap

Did you know that this coming Sunday, Feb. 17th is Random Acts of Kindness Day?  Well, it is.  And I am joining with Michael’s and participating in their week long “Craft It Forward Random Acts of Kindness Week!  I was lucky enough to be able to get to know many of the Crafty Geniuses who work at the Michael’s headquarters this past summer.  And so I was really excited to work with them again on this fun campaign.

Homemade-Lavender-Soap Tutorial

I decided that I wanted to make some Homemade Lavender Soap that I could then give away to friends and family as my “Craft it Forward” project.  I also wanted to do something that my girls could also help with.  I wanted them to be able to make their own soaps that they too could share with their friends!


Now, can you believe that with all my crafting projects that I have NEVER made or played with soap?  I know!  I have always LOVED pretty “handmade” soaps and I guess I thought it was a lot more involved than they really were.  I know there are some people who make handmade soaps completely from scratch and in another life, I would love to be able to try that.

But, for now, I took the super easy road.  And I can’t believe how easy this simple method was.  I talked with my local Michael’s and got some really great tips and advice and learned how to make some really simple but beautiful soap.  Today I will share with you the basics so that you can make some for yourself.  Now…I am no expert, but this is how I made these Homemade Lavender Soaps.

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You will need the following:

A premade soap base (I chose Goat’s Milk Soap)

Scent (I went with my doTerra Lavendar oil but Michael’s has several yummy scents)

A Soap Colorant (I did not use any in this particular soap but did in other soaps I will share later this week)

Rubbing Alcohol

Spray Bottle for the alcohol

Soap Mold

Bowl for melted soap



  1. Break up your soap base into smaller chunks and place into bowl.
  2. Melt in your microwave on 40 second intervals until the soap is fully melted.
  3. Add your soap colorant and scent and stir well.
  4. Pour your soap into your mold.  I used molds that I found at Michaels that were soft and flexible so I did not need to do anything special to the mold.  If you are using a bread pan or a non-flexible mold you may want to spray a little bit of cooking spray to help the soap ease out of the mold when it has hardened.
  5. Spritz the top of the soap with your Rubbing Alcohol to remove any air bubbles from your soap.
  6. If you are adding different soap layers, (like I do in some soaps I am sharing later) you can let the first layer harden and then spritz it again and pour an additional layer of soap on top.  Depending on the number of layers, you can repeat this process over and over.  Allowing sufficient drying time depending on how solid you want your soap layers to be.
  7. Remove from molds and wrap up pretty.

*If your soap becomes too thick to pour nicely into your mold you can quickly re-melt it again in your microwave.

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I was surprised at how easy it was to whip up a batch of yummy smelling soap.  And the fun part was using that same basic method and coming up with a lot of fun varieties of soap.

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And, with some simple wrapping and embellishment you can come up with a very nice and inexpensive gift that someone would love to receive.  Don’t you think?


I simply took some burlap, which I also found at Michael’s, that I trimmed down to wrap around each bar of Lavender Soap.

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Then added a couple of dried sprigs of Lavender. You can also find Lavender at Michaels.

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I had so much fun making Lavender soap, that I began experimenting.  The girls also joined in and made some of their own soaps.  Be sure to come back in a couple of days and I will share those with you and also pictures of my girls crafting them forward.

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Michaels is participating in Random Acts of Kindness Week, Feb. 11-17, by asking customers to share their own random acts of kindness on the Michaels Facebook page and to use the hashtag #RAOKDIY when sharing on Twitter and Instagram.


In celebration of the holiday on Sunday, Feb. 17, Michaels hopes to inspire customers to participate by giving away more than $100,000 in gift cards at its nearly 1,100 U.S. and Canada stores. Gift card recipients will be encouraged to “craft it forward” and exhibit their own random act of kindness towards another person.

Customers who want to “craft it forward” can find inspiration for Random Acts of Kindness projects to give to others on the Michaels Random Acts of Crafting Pinterest board.


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